Pool Liner

Evolution Pools offer a nationwide replacement liner service from the highest quality materials and a name you can trust. There are a range of pool liner options including: tile band, liner wall and liner floor options, as well as liner thicknesses: plain, mixed and full pattern liners. Additional to this you can add factory fitted liner motifs to add that extra touch to your pool.

With a massive range of tile bands and a varied range of width plain and patterned finishes from which any mix can be chosen, the number of possible combinations is unique and limitless.

Please use our Pool Liner Selector below to browse and get a feel for the right combination you are looking for and the our calculator below to get a price on your desired liner combination.

Replacing a Pool Liner is a simple and easy job. This can be self installed or installed by our expert fitters.

All certikin manufactured liners will be supplied with a FREE OF CHARGE fittings replacement kit

Common Queries Answered

Please take note of the following before placing any liner order. In a chemically balanced pool, liners will offer good service at temperatures of up to 32degC. Temperatures in excess of this could considerably reduce the life span of the liner. Whilst every effort will be made during manufacture, it is not always possible to match patterns along the seam due to the high stretch factor of materials and the complexity of some patterns - end users should be aware of this. If you have a step section in the pool, please let us know at the time of order, we will then, where possible, place the closing wall seam central to this point in order that the seam is trimmed out during installation. Many darker materials are printed on a white background. It is therefore common to have a fine white line along the edge of the seam due to the flow of material as they fuse together. This is not a fault. Installation of a liner should not be attempted in temperatures below 10degC as the elasticity of the liner will be greatly reduced.

If you are not happy with the initial fit of the liner, stop the installation and call us to discuss. DO NOT CUT THE LINER. Cutting of the liner will be seen as acceptance of the product.

Fitting the Liner Lock

If the top of the blocks are not absolutely flat and level, this must be adjusted before the liner lock is fitted, and if necessary a sand/cement screed should be accurately levelled around the top of the wall. The coping is laid immediately on top of the liner lock, and if this is not perectly level the undulation are very easily seen under the coping which can spoil the look of an otherwise perfect pool.

The linerlock plastic extrusion can now be fitted to the top of the pool wall using three quarter inch masonry nails, at approximately 18" centres, and nailed at the back of the flat linerlock section to avoid the possibility of chipping off a part of the top block. Start by fixing the four preformed linerlock corners, then cut and fix the straight lengths making sure that the edge is flush with the inside wall. Where a Roman End or Rectangular End is fitted the linerlock should overlap the fibreglass unit up to the liner edge of the faceplate. Drill and fix with a self tapping screw at this point.

Preparing for the Vycon Liner

Firstly, inspect the whole interior of the pool and knock off any lumps of cement or similar and remove. This using a soft broom, brush out the entire pool leaving it completely clean of all debris, finally using a vacuum cleaner to complete this very necessary task.

Fit the inside of the underwater light by pushing the cable up the conduit from the inside of the pool to the deck box and then coil the remaining cable around the light itself which is left inside the niche (in order that the light can always be removed underwater to replace the bulb).

Repair any small defects in the floor screed with a mixture of neat cement and water and make certain that all the faces of the pool fittings and underwater light(s), if fitted, are completely clean and all the screw holes clear. (Also remove wedge of newspaper used to block the pipe work in the main drain.)

Preparing the Vycon Fittings

After cleaning the fittings and making sure all the holes are clear, all the gaskets should be fitted. The inlet fittings and underwater lights have self adhesive gaskets. Peel off all protective paper and carefully fix to the fittings. In the case of the main drain and skimmer, the gaskets are not fitted until the liner is installed

Fitting the Liner

ll Vycon hopper liners are made slightly smaller than the pool, so that they stretch into shape without any wrinkles or creases. If possible the liner should be fitted on a warm sunny day, otherwise leave the liner over night in a warm room to become pliable. The liner should be carefully carried into the pool and laid down in the centre of the shallow end floor. A label will be found indicating the deep and shallow end and the liner should be unrolled down the length of the pool and unfolded. Welded to the top edge of the liner is the linerlock beading which will clip into the linerlock already secured around the top of the pool walls.
DURING THE LINER FIXING EVERYONE IN THE POOL MUST WEAR CLEAN SOFT SHOES TO AVOID DAMAGING THE LINER.
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Start in one shallow end corner by identifying the exact centre of the corner at floor level. With your foot push this into the corner of the pool. Keeping the pressure on this corner, lift the liner wall and press the beading into the linerlock until the liner is held in position. Fix the next corner and continue around the pool. The liner is now fixed in its basic position. If a Roman End or Rectangular End is fitted, a special blanking board should be fitted cross the opening into the steps. This can be made of hardboard, or thick cardboard, and should be 2'3" x 9'8" for a Roman End or 2'3" x 5'2" for a Rectangular End. Nail the

Sucking the Liner into place with a vacuum

The use of a vacuum cleaner to finally position the liner is extremely simple and guarantee the exact fit before any water is put into the pool or any of the fittings cut.

At this stage, check the three pipes leading from the pool and seal off the open ends with masking tape. Fir the frame and lid onto the skimmer and tape up any gaps. A small fillet of cement at the back of the linerlock will be required to prevent any air getting underneath and ensure a complete vacuum.

Vacuum Cleaner

It is preferable to hire a commercial vacuum cleaner from your local plant hire company. The suction hose should be carefully pushed down behind the liner intil it is 6" from the bottom of the wall. This is best positioned approximately 1" from a hopper end corner after unclipping a small section of the liner beading from the linerlock. The gap around the hose will hae to be sealed with tape and the vacuum can now be switched on. After a few minutes the liner will be sucked back against the walls and floor, making it easy to check that the liner has been put in correctly, with all four corners in exactly the right place, the floor seams correctly fitting at the base of the walls. Do not worry if there is tension at the bottom of the walls, and the liner does not suck back completely, but there should be equal tension all round. If there are creases from the top of the wall to the floor seams, this indicates that the top of the liner has to be moved round a little; switch off the vacuum and adjust and the switch on the vacuum again. When satisfied that the liner is correct the main drain fitting can be cut and fitted.

Cutting the Main Drain

Take the main drain flange, gaskets, grille, screws also a Phillips screwdriver and knife down to the bottom of the hopper. The main drain can be easily felt through the liner, and each screw hole punctured with the point of the Philips screwdriver. Both gaskets are positioned under the flange, on top of the liner, and the eight screws are securely screwed home. It is best to screw these lightly first and then screw home the diagonally opposed screws until all are tight. Simply remove the liner material in the centre of the main drain with a sharp knife and fit the grille cover into position.

Cutting the Return Inlet Fitting

The return inlet or inlets must not be cut until the water level is immediately below the fitting. If the pool fittings are cut before the pool has filled to this level there is a possibility of subsequent liner stretch when the pool is filled resulting in creases around the fittings. Locate the four holes in the fitting and pierce them with the Phillips Screwdriver. Now cut and remove the circular hole of liner from the centre and firmly screw the flange into place, again rotating the screwing up procedure. The eyeball housing part can now be screwed into place.

Cutting the Underwater Light Fitting

The underwater light fitting must NOT be fitted until the water level is immediately below the light. At this stage the 12 holes are easily located through the liner, and each should be pierced with a Philips screw driver. The faceplate should now be fitted and securely screwed tight, again tighten the diagonal opposed screws in rotation until firm. After the faceplate has been fitted, use a sharp knife and cut out the inner circle of liner. If in the future the bulb unit has to be changed this is easily carried out without lowering the water level. Undo the two securing screws, remove 'guts'. Uncoil surplus cable wound around light and lift unit onto the paving. The bulb can now be changed and the light refitted.

Cutting Roman End or Rectangular End Fitting

These step units have a gasket fixed when supplied which remains in position. Make sure the water level, approximately 9” is immediately below the bottom of the faceplate, locate the faceplate and secure the top screw on either side. Standing in the water barefoot, place the side of one foot against the bottom of step unit, and press the liner downward into the wall floor joint then secure the screw immediately above. Use this method on all the bottom row screws to ensure that when full the water pressure will not strech the liner further after screwing up the faceplate. In warm sunny weather with the liner pliable the liner will be probably sretch on its own accord, but in colder weather when the liner is not so pliable, the stretching procedure is essential. When the face plate has been securely screwe into place the blanking plate can be removed and the liner cut out with a sharp knife.

Cutting the Skimmer

Again, wait until the water level is immediately below the skimmer. Locate and puncture the 14 screw holes and cut out the inner rectangle of liner. There are two gaskets to fit in between the liner and the flange, which are easily located by pushing two screws in the top corners of the flange and pushing gaskets over the screws, then fixing flange and gaskets to the skimmer. Again screw up carefully and in rotation.

After the skimmer faceplate and gaskets have been fitted, the pool filling can be continued, until the water level is half way up the skimmer mouth.

The next step is to lay the Vycon non slip coping round the pool. First of all mix up a grout of cement and water, and spread on top of the pool walls, this ensures a good bond. Mix up a 6:1 mixture of sand and cement, and level around the top of the pool up to the height, and level with, the top of the linerlock. This must be perfectly flat and level, as the coping stones are bedded directly onto this screed. The four corner coping stones are the first to be positioned after pasting the back of these corner coping with a thick slurry of white cement and water. The pasted corners are positioned on the corners so that the flat base lays on top of the interlock, fully covering it and the face is flush with the inside edge of the pool wall. When the four corner stones are in position a taut line can be stretched along the front edge to provide a perfect straight line for positioning the coping. As there is some slight deviation in thickness of the coping, some coping may require a little thicker pasting to make a perfect top line. The last coping in each line will probably require cutting in length which is easily and quickly carried out with a carborundum disc cutter. A ½" gap should be left between the stones to allow for pointing. The pointing mixture of 1 part silver san to one part of white cement should be carefully trowelled into the gaps wiping off any surplus from the coping stones. The pointing mixture should be of putty like consistency and not too wet.